When asked what interested me most about my time in Siena, I often remarked about the Contrade of Siena as I think they are one of the city’s most fascinating and unique traditions. They are historic districts within the city, each with its own emblem, colors, and fierce sense of identity. Originally created in the Middle Ages for military and administrative purposes, today the Contrade are deeply ingrained in Siena’s culture, playing a major role in social life and, most famously, in the Palio di Siena, the city’s legendary horse race.

By happenstance, we found the amazing restaurant called Il Cavallino Bianco right on Via di Citta, very close to one of the passageways to the Campo. We enjoyed a delicious bruschetta with white beans, cavolo nero (kale) and olive oil, but the star of the afternoon was a pici pasta dish with sausage, fennel and saffron. It was delicious. The staff was warm and welcoming and we enjoyed a glass of Chianti with lunch.

I know I normally say to avoid the restaurants on the main piazze but in Siena, you simply must sit and soak up the sun on Il Campo.  Everyone does!  My favorite spot was Bar Il Palio, with its outdoor seating right on Il Campo and its very tasty Aperol Spritzes, this is the place to while away your Aperitivo time.  Enjoy watching the students laying on Il Campo sharing a panini and laughing.  Watch the families chatting while their dogs play and romp.  It’s people watching at its best and you should not miss it.

There are a couple of amazing cafés and patisseries in town, but two stand out.  On Via di Citta, the somewhat famous Pasticceria Nannini has the most beautiful sweet treats in their wide glass window, it’s almost impossible to pass by without stopping in.  The espresso is strong and the bar is often crowded with locals but welcoming to the crazy American trying to order in Italian.

The second place is more subdued but has an equally warm and welcoming vibe, though I don’t think they serve coffee.  It’s called Bakery Il Magnifico and was recommended by my Senese Italian teacher.  They have bread, sweets, meats and cheeses and other typical Tuscan products.  I highly recommend visiting them for their famous Ricciarelli  – traditional almond cookies from Siena with a soft, chewy inside and a delicate, slightly cracked surface dusted with powdered sugar. They are incredible!

First stop will be Il Campo, the center and heartbeat of this ancient city.  Spend the time (and breath) to climb the 400+ stairs to see Siena from the top of the famous Il Torre Del Mangia.  We picked the clearest day and enjoyed seeing the Tuscan landscapes in the distance.  We went to the small museum inside the Palazzo Pubblico, called the Civic Museum (Museo Civico).  Unlike many of Italy’s grand buildings, it was built as a seat of government rather than for religion. In the Middle Ages, Siena was a powerful independent republic, and civic pride was just as important as religious devotion. The city’s leaders, the Council of Nine, needed a central place to govern and showcase Siena’s wealth and stability. While many Italian cities placed their most impressive buildings in the hands of the Church, Siena dedicated significant resources to its secular government, reflecting its emphasis on civic identity.  This building is also the space where the Palio teams are chosen and then announced by placing flags on the exterior for the crowds who are waiting with baited breath.

Next stop will likely be the magnificent Duomo di Siena with its black and white striped marble interior along with its baptistery and crypt.  You do have to pay a small entrance fee and then you can wander in the church to see the amazingly intricate marble floor, the Piccolomini Library – a beautiful space designed to house a collection of manuscripts belonging to Pope Pius II with walls covered with remarkably vivid frescoes depicting scenes from the his life.  The duomo has an interesting hexagonal pulpit along with sculptures by Michelangelo, Donatello, and Bernini.  Outside, you can see the unfinished facade of an expansion of the church planned in the 14th century.  The plague of 1348 and financial troubles halted construction, leaving behind the massive, unfinished wall known as the Facciatone. You can still see its towering arches, and you can even climb up for an incredible panoramic view of the city, as long as the day is not too windy!

We found another delicious restaurant in the Contrada della Selva called Ristorante La Locanda dei Tintori.  It was our last night in Italy and I had not eaten my very favorite pasta in a few meals so I asked for them to make it for me and they happily accomodated.  Ravioli con burro e salvia — God’s greatest creation – and it was perfect.  We also enjoyed a delicious and perfectly cooked Tuscan steak with parmesan and arugula.  It was a perfect dinner!